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Post by dnpq on Feb 23, 2020 20:20:51 GMT 2
I'll just leave this here
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Post by sean on Mar 17, 2020 15:34:27 GMT 2
Very impressive records there! Any tips on what it takes to become so successful?
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Post by dnpq on Mar 18, 2020 3:44:23 GMT 2
I do not miss sessions. In practice, I adjust the car settings, and also put different parts to find the best combination. Later, when many driver aids will be available, I turn off all useless ones. It makes sense to qualify in any case, especially in the rain. You can win the pole on a drying track and then hold back the entire race with faster cars. I do not use Do or die for qualification, only for overtaking in the race. Here it is worth telling a little more in detail. First, the driver goes to overtake himself, and only then I give the order. To make it work, I specifically slow down the speed of the race. I watch the race in TV mode with switching to a top view to assess the situation. To eliminate the speed deficit at the start, I put three pit stops, and then save fuel (fuel slider to the far left). The amount of fuel at the start of the race directly depends on the lap of the first pit stop. Even if you fill less than indicated, the game will fix it. Plus, the fuel spent on the warm-up lap magically returns. Although many are advised not to touch the tyre slider due to possible errors, this is another way to outsmart the bots, as they cannot save tyres. The main thing is to follow the comments of drivers on tyre temperature. On such demanding tyres tracks as Monaco, this will play you a good service. With the pumping of traction control up to level 3-4, a 7-speed gearbox becomes ineffective, use a 6-speed one. It may be necessary to adjust the top gear, there is nothing complicated, the driver will tell you. Hire the best available engineer and spare money on his wards. With all the facilities, I managed to do up to 10 parts per season. At the same time, I did not disdain to buy technology from rivals, because in any case they are one step ahead of you. In principle, in the first year or two you can completely abandon the production of your own parts and focus on the development of driver assistants until there is enough money. Not all aids are useful throughout the game, some eventually turn into an unnecessary ballast. As you know, it is desirable that the weight of the machine does not exceed the minimum weight established by the rules by more than 100 kg. Usually I lighten the suspension, wings, remove vanes, turn off the assistants. That's essentially all. I hope I told you something new.
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Post by rodrigoxm49 on Apr 6, 2020 20:03:31 GMT 2
I do not miss sessions. In practice, I adjust the car settings, and also put different parts to find the best combination. Later, when many driver aids will be available, I turn off all useless ones. It makes sense to qualify in any case, especially in the rain. You can win the pole on a drying track and then hold back the entire race with faster cars. I do not use Do or die for qualification, only for overtaking in the race. Here it is worth telling a little more in detail. First, the driver goes to overtake himself, and only then I give the order. To make it work, I specifically slow down the speed of the race. I watch the race in TV mode with switching to a top view to assess the situation. To eliminate the speed deficit at the start, I put three pit stops, and then save fuel (fuel slider to the far left). The amount of fuel at the start of the race directly depends on the lap of the first pit stop. Even if you fill less than indicated, the game will fix it. Plus, the fuel spent on the warm-up lap magically returns. Although many are advised not to touch the tyre slider due to possible errors, this is another way to outsmart the bots, as they cannot save tyres. The main thing is to follow the comments of drivers on tyre temperature. On such demanding tyres tracks as Monaco, this will play you a good service. With the pumping of traction control up to level 3-4, a 7-speed gearbox becomes ineffective, use a 6-speed one. It may be necessary to adjust the top gear, there is nothing complicated, the driver will tell you. Hire the best available engineer and spare money on his wards. With all the facilities, I managed to do up to 10 parts per season. At the same time, I did not disdain to buy technology from rivals, because in any case they are one step ahead of you. In principle, in the first year or two you can completely abandon the production of your own parts and focus on the development of driver assistants until there is enough money. Not all aids are useful throughout the game, some eventually turn into an unnecessary ballast. As you know, it is desirable that the weight of the machine does not exceed the minimum weight established by the rules by more than 100 kg. Usually I lighten the suspension, wings, remove vanes, turn off the assistants. That's essentially all. I hope I told you something new. Very good tips here. Some of them I had no idea like use Do or Die to overtake. I always use to make my cars reach the car in the front on races, but turned it off as soon theyre too much close to avoid accidents. I use fuel economy too and tyres only when I really want to keep the car on the track to late the first stop. In my experience, first stop is crucial and late stops can easily lead drivers to massive undercuts. 6 box it was something that I never understand well why from nothing we start to need this. Nice to know! But at least here, with TC on level 6, 6 and 7 gears still have the same performance. Lighter parts is something I have always used, but now gaming back I was neglecting. Suspension, Steering System, Cooling System, Gear Box and every External parts need to be the lighter possible to maximize performance on Qualify. After years without playing, I forgot how important this is really is. About Tyre War on races, somethings it works fine like I say on my first post too, but sometimes doenst matter what you done, tyres keep on high for the entire race, increasing the chance of spun offs. I know that if we use different tyre wear slide than original (50%) on the first lap after a stop, the tyre tends too keep High anyway.
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